Ahlan wa sahlan! My name is Daniel, and I am writing to you from a train somewhere between Tanta and Damanbur, Egypt. I am excited for the opportunity to bring you along for all my adventures in Alexandria, Cairo, and beyond.
But first, my apologies in advance to the authorities that be for not writing a pre-departure entry. Essentially, my pre-departure background and ruminations amount to this:
I am a rising junior in the College majoring in Arabic, and this summer I will be studying through Georgetown University in Alexandria University’s TAFL Center, completing third year intensive Arabic in eight weeks. After that, I will return to Cairo to study at the American University in Cairo (AUC) for the fall semester, after which I plan on taking some time to visit a friend in Amman, Jordan, who will accompany me on a Middle-Eastern backpacking adventure. I began taking Arabic on a whim freshman year, and the language, culture, and idea of pursuing a future in the region quickly grew on me.
The buildup to departure was pretty intense, which makes sense if you’re going to a country where the culture and way of life is nothing like you’ve ever experienced, plan on exploring alone or with natives much of the time, and are stuck there for 6.5 months barring anything major. I remember being at JFK Airport and having a mini-episode within my mind, in which I wondered why on earth I had signed up to do such a thing and couldn’t come up with a logical reason – I’m not sure that I can even now, to be honest. I’ll chalk it up to my self-attributed sense of adventure, which also explains why I am excited to finally be here!
Coming out of the pristine Cairo International Airport, I knew I was going to be immediately thrown into the fast and furious culture I have read much about; I expected that most of the cab drivers were going to see nothing but a giant wallet walking towards them and little time for me to think. A man waiting eagerly at the exit asked if I needed a taxi, hurriedly directed me to a car and threw my bags in. When I finally got the chance to make it clear to him that I only had 75 pounds to offer, he momentarily looked taken aback and showed me a laminated chart that said to go to Ramses Station (Mahatat Masr) is most definitely 100 pounds (which I knew is far too much). I insisted that I would only go for 75, and he countered that there is no cheaper price, sarcastically saying “welcome to Egypt” not a few times. As I politely declined and took my bags out of the trunk, another taxi driver immediately intercepted me and led me to his car for my price. No matter how small, it was my first win playing the “game” that many foreigners travelling to Egypt don’t realize they’ve signed up for. I had been told that preparation, good spirit, and a bit of mental fortitude are key to making the most of the Egyptian experience, and I’ve come ready. Welcome to Egypt, indeed.
After making a bit of small-talk with my cab driver, who was clearly just a sincere Cairene trying to make ends meet, we arrived at Mahatat Masr. I managed to meander (and eventually, assert myself) to the ticket booth and then my platform. Again, coming prepared proved wise, because for about two dollars more, I am enjoying my three hour ride in the air-conditioned, wide-seated first class car of the Turbini instead of one of the much less luxurious commuter cars.
Looking out the window, I have seen more or less what I had learned to expect: rickety shacks on the side of the train tracks with people sitting idly in them, buildings fraught with broken windows and missing walls, and the distinct Arab architecture, with all its charm. Oddly enough, the majority of buildings look like they were meant to be built stories taller but were either knocked down or never finished. I have also noticed busses packed to the rafters, barefooted children playing football in the street, people tending their crops, and a normal-sized pickup truck going at least 60 mph with at least twenty people standing in the back, hijab and galabiya flying in the wind. My first impression of Egypt is (surprisingly) about what I expected, but that certainly doesn’t mean I’m not in awe!
EDIT (06/20/10): Apparently, if the buildings appear or are unfinished, the people living in them don’t have to pay taxes. Kudos to Sophia H., who has travelled to Egypt before, for the insider information!
