When I first left for Russia, I was not worried about being homesick. That has never really been a problem for me, thankfully. Nor was I intimidated about living with a host family. I have done that before, and actually, it is probably the most redeeming and fun aspect of studying abroad. I was a little uneasy about traveling to a country that is know for being freezing and dark half the year, but I can deal with that by simply buying a ridiculously fluffy coat and taking the occasional vitamin D supplement. I did not have any typical study abroad fears. I figured that I have traveled a good amount, and I know how to deal with being away from my family, how to prevent my credit card from being stolen, and how to not act when in a foreign country, etc. That being said, I did have one fear: transportation.
Every country I have ever visited or lived in has a different transportation culture. When I was in Ecuador, buses were intimidating. They would not stop completely, and you had to chase them and jump on while they were still trundling down the street. In the Republic of Georgia, I mainly depended on taxis since they were incredibly cheap, or I walked since the weather was nice. Whenever I was forced to travel by marshrutka (a small van-bus) I could not understand a word of what the driver was saying and usually ended up going the opposite direction from where I needed to be. But, here in Russia, I knew that I would have to use transportation on a daily basis. And, wow, that scared me to death. Needless to say, I am quite pleased to state that, for the most part, I have become quite proficient in the Saint Petersburg public transport system over the last few months, even to the extent that I can give people directions… in Russian. For me, that is the equivalent of a personal thousand victories.
In general, I never get lost. When I walk or drive, I can navigate a city with ease. However, when it comes to buses and trains, I could probably accidentally end up in Kamchatka. Georgetown has not helped me address my awful public transportation skills. We do not have our own metro stop, the shuttles are slightly unreliable, and taxis are about as expensive as an extravagant dinner. I must admit that the buses are nice, but in general, it is hard to break out of the Georgetown bubble. Plus, public transportation in DC is pretty slow, very expensive, and confusing compared to what I have encountered here in Russia.
Public transportation in Russia is wonderful. I cannot believe that I ever feared it. Everyday I find myself gracefully navigating buses, marshrutkas, trolley buses, trains, or the metro. I feel like a new person. It is so cheap, so easy, and so fast. In DC, you might have to wait up to a half an hour for the metro or for a bus. Here, if you wait more than 5 minutes, something seriously awful has to have happened. I can get practically anywhere in the city in less than 30 minutes thanks to the metro’s godlike powers, and I take trolley buses five days a week to the Hermitage to and from work without issue. Buses are almost as fast as the metro, but sometimes the traffic jams here rival those in LA.
Even though I have found that understanding the public transport system makes me feel even more like a member of the city, it is not perfect. I am not a claustrophobic person, but if I were, the metro and the buses here would probably be a nightmare. After about a minute on the metro during rush hour, I feel like a sardine. Sometimes the car jolts, but no one could fall down if they tried, and when the doors open, people are forced to disentangle themselves before they push their way out. It can even get violent at times, even grandmas throw an elbow now and then.
All the pushing and shoving is worth it though. Anyway, what do you expect? Everyone uses it since it is so cheap and easily accessible. A ride on the metro is only 28 rubles (about 92 cents) and a ride on a bus or trolley bus is 23 rubles (about 76 cents). Russia is the only place in the world where change disappears rapidly. It is impossible to get rid of bills, but when you use public transport daily, change practically evaporates.
Finally, my favorite part of finally being able to comprehend the public transport system: it is a perfect way to practice Russian language or learn about society. Here are some things I have learned:
- Everyone in Russia is constantly reading. Remember the sardine-like conditions of the metro? Well, even in that, people read books, kindles, iPads, magazines, etc.
- Grandma’s are not always nice. In fact, they are usually the first to throw punches, or at least curse words, if something they do not approve of happens.
- Dogs, and cats, on leashes are always allowed.
- Every once in a while, it is okay to rant, loudly, about how in the Soviet Union _____ was better. Sometimes it is public transportation, sometimes it is music, sometimes it is women. I have witnessed several tirades, and they can get pretty interesting.
- With the exception of the tirades, the buses and the metro cars are almost always silent.
- It is really easy to sneak on and off without paying if you are on a bus. However, if you get caught, public humiliation is the only punishment. I have never been subject to it, and I am not going to test my luck. The transport itself may not be scary, but the ticket collectors are terrifying.
In the end, there was absolutely nothing to be afraid of when it comes to navigating public transport in Saint Petersburg. Also, the US should really consider revising their system if possible, because this one is awesome.
