Today when I walk into my host family’s building after school, the hallway is filled with the scent of dill. Yesterday it was cigarettes. I pass apartment doors – no two the same – and recall my Russian professor saying that in the Soviet era, doors were a sign of wealth. The apartment was one of the few things considered private, individual space, and thus the threshold of a Soviet citizen’s apartment had to be both impressive and foreboding. In my family’s case, the door is large and brick red, with locks that – in popular fashion – you have to turn twice to open. Ours makes a very satisfying thunk as you unlock it.
The building itself was initially constructed in WWII to house military officers. Everything is fairly narrow – ceilings are stretched high, doors are at least seven feet tall, and hallways are about an arm’s length wide. Maybe I’m just short, but the vaulted ceilings make me feel particularly small. My room reminds me of a classic Georgetown single: a bed, a desk, and a wardrobe that easily fits the little clothing I brought.
My method for packing this semester was essentially grabbing everything I own in the color black. So far, this strategy has not failed me (though to be fair, most of my clothes are black). I brought a winter coat, but will buy boots/gloves/a good hat here, since Russians make warm clothing well. If anyone reading is packing for a similar trip (or perhaps the same program!) I’d recommend doing this. You save on space and weight, which is valuable because Russia sets a 77kg limit on the total baggage you bring into the country. Customs will charge you for overages, and the process seems fairly unpleasant to go through. I was informed before embarking on my journey that Russian women are incredibly stylish, and this is very true. Black clothing, even if the pieces themselves are not objectively fashionable, comes off in my mind as more put together. Maybe this is a weird approach, but it’s worked for me so far. Do with that information what you will.
As far as other packing tips go, here’s what I’ve got:
- Buy appliances like hair dryers/straighteners in St. P. You won’t really save money, but your regular ones will wreck the outlets here.
- Bring a reusable water bottle. You can’t drink the tap water, and buying lots of plastic water bottles is expensive and wasteful. Filter water at your host apartment and bring it with you.
- Wait to exchange money at a bank. We exchanged a little of our cash at the airport so we’d have some rubles on us, and the rate we got was trash in comparison to an actual bank.
Speaking of cash, that’s another transition I’ve had to make since arriving here. While a good number of places do take cards (make sure you have the new tapping kind!), some cashiers will look at you like you’re stupid for even trying. Traditionally, this city has functioned on a cash basis, and many places are still that way.
Another thing I haven’t quite adjusted to is the sheer number of military and police personnel on the streets during the day. In the US, I pass a police officer once every few hours, and a member of the military maybe once or twice a day. Here I see someone in uniform once per ten people. It’s not necessarily a bad thing – I feel very safe here. It’s just a reality of life in this city. You feel a sort of general government presence in most situations, from the officers in body armor outside the mall to the metal detectors you pass through when entering some public parks.
My first experience with the Russian government, in the form of getting my visa, was admittedly stressful. My HIV test results (you have to prove you’re HIV-free to enter the country) expired while at the embassy, so I had to provide new ones with little time to spare. According to their restrictions, the test must be less than 90 days old, and they don’t accept rapid result tests. But once I got my test, and then my visa, it was fairly smooth sailing. Customs was no trouble, and we located our CIEE program organizers easily at the Pulkovo Airport. Our designated meeting spot was Starbucks.
Since arriving, I haven’t had any legal problems (So far. Knock on wood). You really only have to be worried here if you’re being dumb or breaking the rules. You can get fined for jaywalking, for example, so like….I don’t jaywalk. Foreigners need to carry their papers on them…so I do that. Everyday life is not the scary, life threatening experience my mother anticipated it would be. Visually, St. Petersburg is similar to Venice, but with wider streets and more palaces. (Every third building here is a palace. It’s amazing.) I’m still nervous whenever anyone approaches me on the street, because at this point I will likely not understand what they’re saying, but I’m getting better. Immersion is a powerful thing. Seeing the word for “flower shop” thirteen times a day will make you remember the word for flower shop. Overall, I see a great deal of potential here: many new words to learn, many palaces to explore, and many, many black outfits ahead.