The Mexican Constitution says it’s illegal for internationals to participate in local political activity. But what to do when it’s time for the national “Grito de Dolores” that marks the beginning of Mexico’s war for independence? As it turns out, this is a pretty innocuous political act, so I was able to take part. Last night I headed downtown, pushed my way through the most impossible crowd in which I’ve ever been, somehow managed to dance despite the crowd to traditional Northern music and awaited my first ever “grito”!
At eleven PM, the Governor of Yucatan appeared on the balcony to yell “Viva Yucatan”* and “Viva México,” to which the billion people and million police officers packed into the plaza responded, “VIVA!” Next followed the himno nacional, some speeches and probably the most impressive but dangerous fireworks display I’ve ever seen! First of all, they were fired from the cathedral and didn’t go that high in the air. There were also these firework-windmill machines right next to us that spun around, lit, showing images of cowboy boots, sombreros, women in traditional dresses, etc. Ash was falling on us, but I didn’t want to turn my eyes away to miss the show. (Don’t worry, I survived!) Finally, the music started up again, this time one of my favorite new bands, “La Arrolladora Banda el Limón.” All in all, it was an exhausting but impressive night.
And yet it still felt political. I’ve only discussed national politics with a few people so far. First and foremost, my family here in Mérida. They are very progressive. They belong to a political party called the PRD, the Partido de la Revolución Democrática. The PRD feels that Pena Nieto, the PRI candidate/new President of Mexico, bought votes. Some of my comadres feel the same, and a few planned to participate in the Movimiento YoSoy132 action. Like many participants in the capital, they wanted to respond to the cry “Viva México” with “Viva México… sin PRI!” They also planned to finish with the chant “fraude! fraude! fraude!” Thus, a seemingly harmless night of fun transformed into a something very political and very significant. I knew that as an American it would be inappropriate for me to take part, whatever my political vision. But after learning about YoSoy132, even yelling “VIVA,” the traditional response, seemed partisan. I wondered whether that would that be to say, “I am with PRI”?
In the end I decided to take the grito at face value. It’s a Mexican tradition and I had the chance to be a part of it. And I really do hope that Mexico viva! So far, I love this country, no matter who is president. So when it was our turn to yell, I was just as loud and enthusiastic as the next Mexican. According to the Constitution, I, as a foreigner, have no business in Mexican politics. I wonder if I just got away with something?
*The response to “Viva Yucatan” was just as loud as that to “Viva México.” Yucatan has a really strong regional character, and I’ve even heard it referred to as “la República de Yucatan”!
