Copenhagen is filled with coffee shops. They fill the streets and alleyways, I think in part to offer their customers an escape from the rain and a warm drink to sip on while they wait for the weather to reside. I proudly participated in this Danish tradition while trying to escape torrential downpour one afternoon after class. There was something quite comforting about the ambience of the coffee shop combined with watching people hastily running in all directions trying to stay dry amidst the unpredictable weather that seems to be characteristic of this country.
Having no other options, I decided to take out a book I was reading for my “Scandinavian Detective Novel” class, indulge in a latté, and reflect on my past few weeks in Copenhagen. About halfway through my latté, a young mother brought her two young children up to the bar where I was sitting to treat them to some traditional Danish pastries. I could tell by their expressions that they were excited to start munching on their treats, but their British accents revealed that they too had come to Copenhagen as curious tourists. While her children excitedly devoured their chocolate pastries, the mother made sure to ask them their observations of the city. Pretending to read my book, I eavesdropped on their conversation and found the observations of this young British girl, although simple, to be quite accurate and similar to my own. Here’s what she had to say:
“They’re quiet.” The Danes are an almost painfully quiet people, something you might not at first expect with their reputation for being such a happy nation. In general, Danes are not particularly outgoing. It’s been explained to me that it often takes several introductions to get a Dane to speak openly, but once you’ve broken them, it’s difficult to make them stop talking. They seem to be a reserved people who greatly value the right to privacy. In striking contrast to many of the transportation systems in the U.S., the trains and buses in Copenhagen are almost completely silent. There are even sections of the train that forbid talking or noisemaking of any kind. I was recently told that most Danes feel that each person is entitled to the right to silence, and that to interrupt this time during a person’s commute is actually considered insensitive. However, the quiet atmosphere of the buses and trains gets complicated when trying to exit at one’s stop. There is no word for “Excuse me” in Danish, meaning Danes rely entirely on body language to determine when someone is trying to get off the bus or train. This could easily be mistaken for rudeness if one was not aware of this cultural difference, but it’s a part of a larger cultural philosophy of privacy and reservation.
“They’re beautiful.” Although the streets of Copenhagen are filled with tall blondes, it’s their knack for fashion that is particularly impressive. For the most part, they dress in lots of greys and browns with colorful accessories that give their outfits attitude. Their shoes are equally impressive; almost no two pairs are exactly the same. I really came to appreciate this Scandinavian fashion after my first day trekking through the rain. Minutes after the rain started, I was trudging around looking, to put it frankly, like a wet dog. As I looked around for people who were having an equally difficult time staying presentable in the aftermath of the rain, I was surprised to see that everyone looked as if there had been no rain at all. The Danes have mastered the temperamental weather of Denmark with what I attribute to fashion genius. They seem to dress in a way that is conducive to any type of weather, sun, rain, or snow. Although I’m starting to get a hang of the Danish style necessary to brave the unpredictable elements of this region, the both functional and incredibly stylish fashion that fills the city streets is something that will probably never cease to amaze me.
“It’s dirty.” Although I disagree with this part of her observations, I can see how the city’s landscape would be difficult for a child to understand. I was originally overwhelmed with the city’s ability to seamlessly marry its historical and modern design aesthetics. Walking around the city, it is not unusual to see a 300-year-old building alongside a sleek, modern space full of the contemporary designs that Scandinavia is known for. In fact, the relatively new Black Diamond Library, which is constructed almost entirely of glass, sits on the water directly across from rows and rows of quaint-looking brick buildings. The city landscape, similar to the fashion of many Danes, combines aesthetic elements in innovative ways. However, Copenhagen is still an urban city with its fair share of street tags and urban art. What differentiates Copenhagen from other cities is that it doesn’t try to hide its urban elements. The design aesthetic of the city doesn’t try to push this part of its city’s culture away, but rather acknowledges it as an art form. Copenhagen’s landscape is thus an amalgamation of different aesthetics, each representing a part of the city’s past, present, and future.
“They have a lot of bikes.” It would be hard to visit Copenhagen and not be surprised by the multitude of bikes coming from all directions in any kind of weather. I had heard biking was popular, but I wasn’t expecting it to be as ubiquitous as it is. There are all different kinds of bikes: slow ones, fast ones, bikes designed to be ridden with children, used for shopping, and for basic transportation. Danes ride their bikes year-round regardless of weather, creating full-body ponchos to ensure that they arrive at their destination dry and ready for the rest of their day. Women ride their bikes in high heels and dressed to the nines, effortlessly gliding through the city’s streets without a second thought as to how they’ll look when the arrive at work or school. And a word of caution to any visitor to Copenhagen: they will run you over! Biking is so much a part of the daily commute that they don’t stop for pedestrians. In other words, join the biking craze or risk injury!
“They stand on the corner for a long time.” I thought this a rather keen observation, considering it was one of the things that perplexed me when I first arrived. Being raised in U.S. cities where jaywalking is common, especially when one is in a rush, I found it confusing that so many people just stood on the street corners, patiently waiting for the cross-walk light to turn green even when there were no cars or bicycles coming from either direction. I soon learned that following traffic laws is just one example of how seriously the Danes take their legal system. The Danes operate on a “trust system.” They assume that most everyone follows the law honestly in order to ensure safety and security for everyone. The crime rate in Denmark is consequently one of the lowest in the world. To violate this trust system in even the mildest way by jaywalking is extremely frowned upon. Jaywalking is thus a surefire way to make you stand out as a foreigner. My Danish professor recently told me that if you ever see someone in New York City standing on a snowy street corner in the middle of the night waiting for a crosswalk sign to change, it is more than likely a Dane.
After this last observation, the young girl interrupted her mother with a large smile on her face. She said loudly, “Mommy, you have to try the chocolate muffin, it’s quite delicious!” I couldn’t help but smile at her comments. In her observations she had mimicked in many ways the attitudes of the Danish people. Be observant and inspired by your surroundings, embrace life’s discomforts by dressing up for the occasion (in this case the rain and the cold), and always enjoy the simple pleasure of a Danish pastry.
